From the 1^st century AD and in the times of ancient Crete we can find visual evidence of woman wearing a bikini.  It’s use may have changed slightly over time but for all intensive purposes we can trace the use of the bikini for women for thousands of years.  It has invariably come in and out of favor as the times have changed and women's bodies covered or uncovered as societies views morphed, but as we can see from the pictures I have found that it has been a style of dress that has been worn and revisited for centuries upon centuries.                

Taken from Fashionera.com , I found a humorous quote regarding  how the Bikini got named,

“The modern version was patented by Louis Reard in 1946.  His design was more akin to the skimpy string 1970's bikinis.  Bikinis made news then and as versions have become skimpier they have always attracted attention.  When the Bikini was named its impact was likened to the test atomic explosion on Bikini atoll.” 

And that is exactly how it got named so, because it reminded Louis Reard to the atomic testing that had happened on Bikini Atol.  I can only imagine the ripples in the water that women baring so much skin during that time. It must have been quite shocking, but times were changing so rapidly, changes in fashions and freedoms for women were coming in leaps and bounds.  As we look back and reflect today, we can see that this form of garment was worn so long ago, fell out of wear as women were covered and their bodies not shown publicly, and again came full circle to reveal and free the woman’s body  to be revealed,  coveted and admired. 

Historic draping and tailoring research

An elementary choice for my first historic draped garment is the Chiton from ancient Greece.  This was their primary garment. It was an all-over body garment made from a large rectangle of cloth wrapped once around the body from right side to right side.  This garment was then pinned at the shoulders and tied at the waist or hips, and draped in hanging folds about the body. Young men generally wore short chitons, and older men and women longer ones.

Equally famous in the ancient world but entirely different in drape technique is the Egyptian shawl style garment.  One of my favorite things in theater has been to employ actual methods of wrapping when I can for historic costumes.  The technique although simple in execution once one understands how, can be extremely difficult to intuitively come up with. 

Process of draping the dress

Artful draping of the Egyptian shawl dress

completed draped dress

And lastly for my draped garments I am pleased to have found a wonderful draped garment for men of the 1490's.  It is a Pre-Tudor gown as it is called, it seems to have a multipurpose use as overcoat and long shirt/gown.  I am particularly pleased to have found this as I often use historic garments for out theater productions and sometimes I am not sure what the exact period would  have looked like.  This website offers a plethora of just that information.  You can find it at https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/rh611-1490s-pre-tudor-mans-gown.php?c=1&w=38&r=Y
I hope you will find it as wonderful as I did. 

For my first example of a tailored garment, I would like to add this picture of an 1860's riding habit as it was called.  It featured a very fitted bodice or jacket, tapered and worn over a shirt normally, with a long very full skirt.

1860's Riding habit

 

 

 

A  contemporary dress crafted by the Japanese master of tailoring to the body but breaking the barriers that hold our garments there, Issey Miyake created this dress which is holds to the natural form of the body but then triangular protrusions jet out escaping the lines that the body forms.

Issey Miyake 1989 Dress

While there are limitless options of tailored garments throughout history and today, nothing speaks to me more of tailoring than a military uniform. One magnificent piece is that of Napoleon Bonapart's uniform circa late 1700's early 1800's. 

Recent Fashions influenced by old ones

I would be remiss if I did not highlight some of the work of one of my favorite designers of all time, Coco Chanel.  I find bold and inspiring the simplicity of her lines and her thoughts about what women's fashion should be and more clearly what it shouldn't be .  Her work and her life's mantra it seems resounded enough so that we can still see her work reflected in today's runway collections.
I thought it very telling as well that one of my favorite contemporary designers is Donna Karan.  Again I find that she inspires, grace and femininity, ease in wear and enhancement of the female body.  Many of the same qualities that I find so drawing about Coco Chanel's brand of design. 









This is a piece that was designed by Coco Chanel herself but is being worn by a contemporary model.  I learned very much and gathered much information about her collections at the Victoria and Albert Museum.  The web site can be accessed at  http://www.vam.ac.uk.

These are designs from Donna Karan's Spring 2011 collection.  Although the designs differ somewhat in style it is easy to see where Karan has gotten some of the vibe.  Keeping it ever feminine, draping with flowing layers cascading around and down the feminine form much the way we can see the way Coco Chanel always reflected on the form of the body and ways to make it more beautiful. 

Another designer and another look from Chanel is brought forth to today and  highlighted below in a Gucci design for the Ready to wear 2010 collection featuring a shorter version of the classic Chanel Jacket, use of pearls and simple fabrics and colors.

 

And finally as it seems I cannot stay away from Chanel and Donna Karan, I have chosen yet another beautiful example from Chanel from the 1930's.  Who knows how many incarnations and inspirations have been sparked and have grown in the psyche of contemporary designers from this gown. I have highlighted below at least one in my judgement.

                                                                                                  A stunning example of how Donna Karan could have found inspiration from Coco Chanel's work for her beautifully draped evening gown.

In the end what I have come to understand is that within simplicity there are many roads to beauty.  It can be stunning,flattering,  accentuating, sexy and very chic.   I think that these two designers have come up with a way to bring there personal design vision of simplicity in form and style can emphasize and enhance the female form with out detracting from it.  

And in the words of Coco Chanel  herself   "A woman is closest to being naked when she is well dressed." and "Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman"